Si Phan Don

Just before Cambodia, the Mekong splits into a maze of islands and fast channels: the 4,000 Islands. Three islands to stay on, the old French railway on Don Khon, and the Khone falls, among the most powerful in Asia.

Pakse Champasak Si Phan Don Stung Treng Kratie ← upstream downstream → Champasak Si Phan Don Stung Treng
Laos section · km ≈ 4,190
Where on the river?
Southern Laos Just before the Cambodian border.
Border?
Yes Nong Nok Khiene, towards Stung Treng; no Lao e-Visa.
How many days?
2 to 4 days Don Det and Don Khon, then Don Khong.
When to go?
Nov → Feb Dry season, November to February.
How to get there?
Minibus and boat From Pakse in 2.5 to 4 hours.

South of Champasak, the Mekong widens to as much as 14 km in the rainy season and splits into a maze of channels and islands: Si Phan Don, the “4,000 Islands”, whose number changes with the flood. Three islands share the visitors. Don Det, the busiest, lines the water with guesthouses and hammocks; Don Khon, linked by an old French railway viaduct, holds the Li Phi falls; Don Khong, the largest, keeps the slower pace of its villages and is reached by a bridge from Route 13.

Things to do in Si Phan Don

Khone Phapheng falls, the Mekong in rapids between rocks across its whole width

Photo by Basile Morin on Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

Khone Phapheng falls

The Mekong tumbles over rocks across its whole width, with drops of up to 21 m: the largest falls in Southeast Asia by volume, according to Tourism Laos. On the mainland, about 13 km from Ban Nakasang.

Li Phi falls on Don Khon island at dusk

Photo by Basile Morin on Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

Li Phi falls on Don Khon

Rapids and cascades in the middle of Don Khon, laid out as a park, with zip lines and suspension bridges at extra cost. Entry is around 30,000 to 35,000 kip, according to recent guides.

The old locomotive of the French railway on Don Khon, under its shelter

Photo by Pierre André Leclercq on Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 4.0

The French railway on Don Khon

Built from 1893 to bypass the falls, which boats cannot pass: about 7 km of track across Don Khon and Don Det, a viaduct between the two islands, the old locomotive under its shelter and, to the south, the remains of the port.

Don Det houses on the Mekong, seen from the bridge to Don Khon at dawn

Photo by Basile Morin on Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

Don Det by bike

A loop of the island by bike, past rice fields and hamlets, then the viaduct to Don Khon. Every guesthouse rents bikes, for a few tens of thousands of kip a day.

Long boats moored on a Don Khon bank, two fishermen on the water

Photo by Basile Morin on Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

By boat or kayak between the islands

Fishermen set their traps in the river channels. Hire a boat in the village, or spend a day kayaking with a guide from island to island down to the rapids.

Irrawaddy dolphins: there are none left on the Lao side. The border pool population, declared functionally extinct in 2016, lost its last dolphin in February 2022, according to WWF. To see them, head down to Kratie in Cambodia, which counted 111 in 2025. Where to see Mekong dolphins →

Where to stay in Si Phan Don

A small private island with a beach off Don Det, a chalet on the sunset side, and a budget guesthouse on Don Khon, near Li Phi falls.

Don Falang island at sunset, a bungalow by the water among the trees

Photo: Don Falang Homestay

Don Falang Homestay

Don Falang · a small island off Don Det

A small private island with a beach, restaurant, bar and water sports; air-conditioned rooms.

≈ $76 a night

Moon By Night bungalows around a lawn, hammocks under a tree

Photo: Moon By Night

Moon By Night

Don Det · sunset side

An air-conditioned chalet with balcony, garden and bar; bikes to rent nearby.

≈ $47 a night

The long wooden house of Pa Kha Guesthouse by the river, under palm trees

Photo: Pa Kha Guesthouse

Pa Kha Guesthouse

Ban Khone · Don Khon

Rooms with river-view balconies and private bathrooms, a terrace, near the viaduct and Li Phi falls.

≈ $15 a night

Booking affiliate links · average nightly price checked in October 2026

Getting to and from Si Phan Don

LAOSCAMBODIADon DetDon KhongKhone Phapheng fallsStung TrengNatural Earth LAOSCAMBODIADon DetDon KhongKhone Phapheng fallsStung TrengNatural Earth
Lines: roads. Diamonds: sights. Base map: Natural Earth.

From Pakse

Minibus and boat · 2.5 to 4 hours

Morning minibuses, between 8 and 9 am, to Ban Nakasang, then about twenty minutes by boat to Don Det or Don Khon: around €9 to €10 in all. Cheaper local buses leave from the southern bus station.

Tickets and times on 12Go Affiliate link

From Champasak

Minibus and boat · 3 hours

Departures at 9:30 am and 12:30 pm from the Champasak east terminal, €13 to €15.

To Cambodia

Nong Nok Khiene – Trapeang Kriel crossing

On the Lao side, no e-Visa at this crossing. On the Cambodian side, a visa on arrival paid in dollars, or an e-Visa, accepted at Trapeang Kriel. Minibuses continue to Stung Treng, Kratie and Siem Reap.

By air, via Pakse

Pakse airport (PKZ) · 144 km to Ban Nakasang

Lao Airlines flies Vientiane to Pakse two or three times a day; continue by minibus.

Times and prices checked in October 2026 (12Go, travel guides): check again before you travel.

Si Phan Don weather and best time to visit

November to February brings 30 to 33 °C in the afternoon and 20 °C at night, and sandbanks appear between the islands. March and April are the hottest, up to 35 °C. From May to October the monsoon brings about 300 mm a month from July to September: the river rises, some islands vanish and the falls are at their most powerful.

Climate and Mekong water level in Don Khong, month by month
Month J (current month) F (current month) M (current month) A (current month) M (current month) J (current month) J (current month) A (current month) S (current month) O (current month) N (current month) D (current month)
Airhigh / low
Rainmm
5
7
41
89
212
242
288
301
307
171
56
14
Daysof rain 1271426262828282072
Mekonglevel Low Low Low Low Low Low High High High High Low Low
Our take Ideal Ideal Fair Fair Fair Fair Difficult Difficult Difficult Good Ideal Ideal
Climate and Mekong water level in Don Khong, month by month
Month Low – high mm River
Jan (current month) 5 Low
Feb (current month) 7 Low
Mar (current month) 41 Low
Apr (current month) 89 Low
May (current month) 212 Low
Jun (current month) 242 Low
Jul (current month) 288 High
Aug (current month) 301 High
Sep (current month) 307 High
Oct (current month) 171 High
Nov (current month) 56 Low
Dec (current month) 14 Low
Air and rain: Open-Meteo, archive ERA5, 1991-2020 averages (retrieved October 11, 2026). Mekong level: Mekong River Commission, Don Sahong station, median of 2021-2025, 3.5 m between the lowest and highest months. The current month is outlined.
The islands at the end of the dry season: Laos in March →

Tours to book in Si Phan Don

2 tours to book in Don Det and Don Khon

Affiliate links GetYourGuide · Prices checked October 10, 2026

Kayaking between the islands and a zip line over Li Phi

  • 4.5 to 5.5 hours
  • 5/5 · only 2 reviews

Kayaking along Don Det to the French bridge, then two hours of zip lines over Li Phi falls, a swim at Kong Yai beach and the paddle down to Hang Khone; return by vehicle.

Don Khon by bike, then the islands by boat

  • 5.5 hours
  • 4.1/5 · only 3 reviews

By bike to the colonial-era locomotive, Khone Pasoy waterfall, Ban Hang Khone village and Li Phi falls; after lunch, a private boat trip to fishing and bamboo-weaving villages.

Si Phan Don FAQ

Is there an ATM on Don Det?
No, none as of February 2025, according to Wikivoyage. The nearest are in Ban Nakasang on the mainland, which has two. Arrive with kip.
Can you swim in the Mekong at the 4,000 Islands?
With care: the current is strong and obstacles lie hidden below the surface, especially near the falls. WHO also reports schistosomiasis in 202 villages of Khong and Mounlapamok districts; the US CDC advises avoiding untreated fresh water.
Do you pay to cross from Don Det to Don Khon?
Not any more, according to guides dated 2024 and 2026: the viaduct is free on foot or by bike. Only the Li Phi falls park charges an entry fee.

Sources: climate, Open-Meteo (ERA5 archive, 1991-2020 averages); islands and falls, Tourism Laos and Vientiane Times (2026); railway, Tim Doling (Historic Vietnam); dolphins, WWF, IUCN Cetacean Specialist Group and Mongabay (2016-2022), Cambodian Ministry of Agriculture (2025); health, WHO (2025) and CDC; safety, FCDO (2026); border, official Lao e-Visa portal and Cambodian embassy in Berlin (October 2026); transport and prices, GeckoRoutes, Wikivoyage and 12Go (2026); activities, GetYourGuide (checked October 10, 2026). Updated on October 12, 2026 by Pierre-Marie Coupry.